The Intelligence

Welcome to the Bibliotheque of VRAI COSMETICS Ingredients

A – B C – D E – I J – M N – O P Q – S T – Z

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid used in cosmetics as an emollient to help keep skin smooth and mask the appearance of blemishes. DERIVED FROM palm oil, which is derived from the palm fruit.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT

Panthenol

When used in topical formulations, it conditions and soothes skin and helps to build a barrier against irritation and helps to lock in hydration. DERIVED FROM vitamin B5, also known as pantothenic acid.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a chemically modified version of castor oil considered non-sensitizing and safe for use in cosmetics with identified concentrations up to 22% of formula. This ingredient serves as an emollient to ensure consistency in texture and viscosity. It functions as a humectant and is occlusive, making it a skin conditioning agent as well. PEG 40 Castor Oil is rich in triglycerides and fatty acids like oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, and linoleic acid. DERIVED FROM castor oil.
WITH EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT
Small amounts of 1,4 dioxane, a by-product of PEG (polyethalene glycol derived from polymerizing ethylene oxide) may be found residually in PEG derivatives. When PEG's are used for cosmetic applications, it undergoes a purification process to control the potential presence of 1,4 dioxane to ensure it is removed before blending into cosmetic formulations.
VRAI IQ
When there is no significant exposure to the skin, the risk, even if trace amounts remained present after the purification process, would pose no risk, especially in applications where the formula is limited to hair or lashes, and no skin contact is made.

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol is used as a preservative and stabilizer and carries a faint rose scent. Decades of research and safety assessments have allowed experts worldwide to conclude it is safe for use in cosmetic products in both leave-on, and rinse-off formulations. Phenoxyethanol was first introduced in 1950 and is among the most highly effective preservatives for protecting formulas from broad-spectrum pathogenic activity. Phenoxyethanol is synthetically produced for commercial use but is found naturally in green tea which is often used to preserve products listed as "natural" and is approved for use by the EU standard in formulations with a maximum concentration of 1%. The FDA currently does not carry a regulated standard for concentration use. DERIVED FROM: treating phenol with ethylene oxide in an alkaline medium. It is also found naturally in green tea, and plants such as chicory.
WITH EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT controversy remains strong over the use of phenoxyethanol and when exposed to its pure form in 100% concentration, has been shown to affect the central nervous system. (NOTE: cosmetic formulations use 1% or less.) Due to risk of potential concern, it is best to avoid this ingredient for products that will have significant skin contact. Use in hair formulations that will not contact the scalp, or in brow applications which are applied to the brow hair making minimal to no skin contact, or in mascaras when applied only to the lash, carry little to no concern as these applications are making no, to minimal contact with the skin. Lashes and hair do not have the ability to absorb what is applied, and carry it into the tissues or blood stream.
VRAI IQ
In conclusion, a best practice would be to avoid this ingredient in products with significant skin contact, and use confidently in products with little to no skin contact, as phenoxyethanol does prove to be the safest among preservatives, ensuring the formulation remains safe to use and can pass safety testing as well as ocular testing in products.

Phenylpropanol

Phenylpropanol is primarily used as a preservative, and since it carries a soft floral aromatic (similar to hyacinth) it is often used in formulations to add a scent, or to mask the aromas of unpleasant compounds used. It can be either naturally or synthetically derived. Phenyl (Phenol) is from a group of aromatic chemicals (hydrocarbon residue) also found in cinnamon, clove, thyme, cassia, and oregano, which when applied topically has in some cases caused contact sensitization. For this reason, phenylpropanol can be irritating to sensitive skin when used in formulations with high concentrations although generally it is used in concentrations less than 1% and unlikely to cause a reaction. DERIVED FROM flowers and fruits such as hyacinth, narcissus, and ripe strawberries; then extracted via the reaction of propenyl benzene and hydrochloric acid in the presence of a base like sodium hydroxide to create hydrocarbon residue.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT

Polyethylene

In cosmetics, polyethylene is used as a, binder, bulking agent, emulsion stabilizer, film former, and as a viscosity increasing agent nonaqueous. DERIVED FROM ethylene. Polyethylene has been extensively reviewed by regulatory authorities and final determination regards it as a safe ingredient to be non-hazardous when used properly in cosmetic applications and does not present any side effects on the skin and hair including skin contact, inhalation, and ingestion. It is important to note that it cannot penetrate the skin due to its large size and therefore has no adverse effects and is deemed safe for use in cosmetics.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT
A note from Melissa: I realize and appreciate the concerns around polyethylene being a compound used in the production of plastics. However extensive research left me without valid data that polyethylene, when used properly in cosmetic formulations, caused disruption to the human structure. However this ingredient remains on the VRAI IQ watchlist and if warranted, the rating will be adjusted.

Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (a fatty acid ester) is a multi-functional emulsifier that stabilizes dispersions. It helps prevent the separation of water and oil in a formulation and provides skin moisturizing properties as well. It creates a smooth application for topical formulations and has exhibited antimicrobial activity against gram positive bacteria. DERIVED FROM polyglycerin and a fatty acid.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a high-performing film former used to condition skin, enhance formula texture and act as a blurring agent. It adds softness to the formulation for smooth application and even coverage. Its compounds help to repel water, smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, create a blurred (airbrushed) effect, absorb excess oil, and is generally found to be non-irritating. DERIVED FROM the condensation and hydrolysis of the silicone methyltrimethoxysilane.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT
Continued assessment by the Independent Cosmetics Ingredient Review panel has concluded that polymethylsilsesquioxane is safe as used in cosmetics, with no evidence or toxicity or sensitization. The silicone polymer is non comedogenic, and shows no evidence of clogging or irritating pores.
VRAI IQ
Controvery exists over silicas (silicones) and their relation to silicosis however silicosis is caused by the inhalation of cystalline silica dust. Crystalline silica is not used in cosmetic use. Silicas used for cosmetic formulation is amorphous silica (non crystalline) so the association between silicosis from cystalline is irrelevant to the cosmetic formulations containing silica from amorphous silica. Although outdated research documenting health concerns still exist, it is rebuted by more current research and conclusions from the 2016 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) studies which concluded Triethoxycaprylylsilane safe for use in cosmetics when used in its proper form. There are nearly 200 siloxanes and siloxane derivatives listed in the inventory of ingredients used as compiled by the European Commission. Opinions and conclusions that categorize all silicones / siloxanes as one concern are inaccurate, as each compound functions and performs uniquely. The siloxane compounds used in VRAI cosmetics have been concluded as safe for use in cosmetics when formulated in their proper use form by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the European Union Commission.

Polysilicone 11

Polysilicone 11 is a type of silicone elastomer whose primary function in formulations as a film former is to create a smooth silky-like layer over the skin. As an elastomer, its flexible, mesh-like properties do not suffocate skin or clog pores and is non-comedogenic. The results are a blurred effect to skin, with a matte appearance and powdery silk feel. The molecule size of the polymers used do not penetrate the skin. DERIVED FROM the reaction of vinyl-terminatedsiloxane and methylhydroxydimethyl siloxane in the presence of cyclomethicone. Numerous tests have concluded no negative health or safety concerns when used in cosmetic formulations in their proper form.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT
VRAI IQ
Controversy exists over silicas (silicones) and their relation to silicosis; however silicosis is caused by the inhalation of cystalline silica dust. Crystalline silica is not used in cosmetic use. Silicas used for cosmetic formulation is amorphous silica (non crystalline) so the association between silicosis from cystalline is irrelevant to the cosmetic formulations containing silica from amorphous silica. Although outdated research documenting health concerns still exist, it is rebuted by more current research and conslusions from the 2016 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) studies which concluded Triethoxycaprylylsilane safe for use in cosmetics when used in its proper form. There are nearly 200 siloxanes and siloxane derivatives listed in the inventory of ingredients used as complied by the European Commission. Opinions and conclusions that categorize all silicones / siloxanes as one concern are inaccurate as each compound functions and performs uniquely. The siloxane compounds used in VRAI cosmetics have been concluded as safe for use in cosmetics when formulated in their proper use form by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review and the European Union Commission.

Polyurethane-35

Polyurethane-35 is a skin forming polymer agent especially designed for UV products to effectively boost SPF and reduce skin stimulation. Reviewed by regulatory agencies worldwide, polyurethane-35 has been concluded safe for use in cosmetic formulations and has had no reported adverse effects associated with its proper use in cosmetic formulations. DERIVED FROM the polymerization of diisocyanate and polyol. Once the reaction of its components has taken place, the result is a polyurethane foam that is completely inert and harmless to humans.
WITH EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT
66 polyurethane ingredients were reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel in total. Each polyurethane each carries unique properties, functions, and are individually created in their own process. Polyurethane-35 was found to have a slight irritation to skin when applied topically, and inhalation risk when in its raw form.
VRAI IQ
When formulated for cosmetic application in products that have minimal to no skin contact, skin irritation is unlikely and therefore can be used confidently. However, this ingredient should be carefully considered when used in formulations with significant coverage in a leave-on formula.

Populus Tremuloides (Aspen) Bark Extract

Aspen bark powder helps to absorb excess oil on the skin and helps to condition the skin. Because aspen bark naturally contains the compound salicin, it may be soothing to irritated skin and helps to balance pH.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT

Propylene Carbonate

Propylene Carbonate functions as a solvent in cosmetic formulations and acts as a viscosity controlling agent. It is a long-lasting solvent that forms a protective film on the skin and helps prevent water loss, resulting in the appearance of smooth, conditioned skin. Propylene carbonate is non comedogenic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel found propylene carbonate to cause moderate skin irritation in its raw undiluted form; however found no concerns in its diluted form as properly used in cosmetic formulations (at concentrations up to 20% showing no irritation or sensitization) and deemed this ingredient safe for cosmetic use. DERIVED FROM: propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
WITHOUT EXCEPTIONS INGREDIENT
VRAI IQ
While the word "propylene" can be cause for pause, it should not be confused with propylene glycol. Propylene carbonate is a carbonic acid of propylene glycol.